5 iconic watches (and the affordable alternatives everyone can enjoy)
Do you want a nice watch without remortgaging your home? Check out these more budget-friendly bangers.
The world of watches has its fair share of iconic designs. These timepieces transcend fashion and functionality. “They are often historically or culturally significant, emblematic of a particular industry, or may have been worn by someone famous,” explains Simon Lazarus, head of PR and Content at Chrono Hunter, an online watch buying and selling platform.
A challenge, however, is that many of these watches fall into luxury and ultra-luxury price categories, putting them beyond the reach of most of us mere mortals. Even if I could, I’m not sure I’d feel comfortable wearing the cost of a car or a house on my wrist.
Thankfully, horology is a broad church. And while some watches can be prohibitively expensive if you aren’t an oil baron or Premier League footballer, if a particular design has truly achieved icon status, then it’s likely that there will be others from different brands that take inspiration from it.
We're not talking fake or replica watches here; if you’re silly enough to buy a “Ralex” on a beach somewhere, you deserve every timekeeping disaster you get. However, there’s nothing wrong with a great homage or something which shares similarities with an icon but has enough differences to still offer its own unique identity, story and value proposition.
“Watch enthusiasts come in different shapes and sizes, and so do their wallets,” Lazarus agrees. “The important thing is to buy what you love, and love what you buy… Be comfortable with your budget.”
With that in mind, here are five iconic watches and some more affordable alternatives which might help you achieve the look you want without breaking the bank…
The icon: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
- Price: c. £30,000 (average) | Movement: Automatic | Case diameter: 37mm, 39mm, 41mm and 42mm options
AP’s flagship design is widely viewed as the first-ever luxury sports watch. The octagonal-shaped bezel with exposed hexagonal screws at each of its corners (intended to resemble a diver’s helmet) and checkerboard textured dial, as well as a case that integrates smoothly into a tapering bracelet, make for a watch that is somehow both classy and rugged. Famous Royal Oak owners include LeBron James, Chris Hemsworth and Jay Z.
The alternative: Tissot PRX
- Price: £300-800 | Movement: Automatic and Quartz options | Case diameter: 35mm and 40mm options
Tissot’s PRX range doubtlessly draws inspiration from the Royal Oak, but opts for a rounded bezel and a simpler bracelet, leaning towards a more casual, less avant-garde aesthetic. It comes in both battery-powered and automatic iterations and also offers a 35mm case size option to suit smaller wrists. Regardless of the movement or the model you choose, a PRX will be a fraction of the price of a Royal Oak.
The icon: Rolex Daytona
- Price: c. £25,000 (average) | Movement: Automatic | Case diameter: 40mm
Rolex was the official timekeeper for the Daytona stock car race in 1962 and a year later it released its Ref. 6239 model, which was nicknamed accordingly. The company has since riffed on the three-subdial and engraved tachymeter bezel design many times over, creating a portfolio that is hugely popular with celebrities including Paul Newman, John Mayer and Shah Rukh Khan.
The alternative: Seiko Prospex Speedtimer
- Price: £600-700 | Movement: Solar Quartz | Case diameter: 39mm and 41mm options
Seiko’s Prospex Speedtimer collection offers a variety of colour options, which pop off the wrist. These chronographs use a Solar Quartz movement, meaning they can be powered by natural or artificial light. At full charge, they can last for up to six months without needing to be charged again, but the beauty is, if worn, they’re always charging – unless you live in a cave.
The icon: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
- Price: c. £8,000 (average) | Movement: Automatic | Case diameter: 36mm and 41mm options
Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Datejust was the first watch design to feature the now widespread date display at 3 o’clock, the first automatic watch with a quick-change function for this slot, and the first to be mounted on Rolex’s beautiful Jubilee bracelet. It was also the first model to feature the bubble-shaped “Cyclops” lens which magnified the date. The Datejust range oozes understated elegance and quiet confidence. Some famous Datejust wearers include Roger Federer, Justin Bieber and the Dalai Lama.
The alternative: Citizen Tsuyosa
- Price: £200-300 | Movement: Automatic | Case diameter: 40mm
In navy blue or black, the Citizen Tsuyosa is a strong "go anywhere, do anything" (GADA) watch choice, as appropriate with a suit as it is with a t-shirt and jeans. In one of its more striking colours, particularly yellow or orange, it can add an exclamation mark to a summer fit. The Tsuyosa has sharper edges than a Datejust, is slightly thicker, and has its crown at 4 o’clock rather than 3 o’clock.
The icon: Grand Seiko Snowflake
- Price: £5,800 | Movement: Automatic | Case diameter: 41mm
Grand Seiko, the luxury spinout from Seiko, perhaps lacks the same level of celebrity endorsement as some of its similarly priced competitors. But the brand is hugely respected among horophiles due to its advanced movement technology, accuracy and beautiful dials. Many Grand Seiko models are inspired by nature and its most iconic – the Snowflake – aims to emulate the windswept snow of Japan’s Hotaka mountains, which surround the Grand Seiko studio.
The alternative: Citizen Zenshin Three-hand
- Price: £399 | Movement: Eco-Drive | Case diameter: 39mm
Citizen’s featherweight, scratch-resistant model comes on a titanium bracelet and uses the brand’s patented Eco-Drive technology. This light-powered watch, if kept regularly charged, boasts an annual accuracy of up to ±5 seconds, punching well above its price point for this metric. The Zenshin Three-hand also has a textured white dial and day-date display at 3 o’clock, as well as luminous hands and markers.
The icon: Omega Seamaster Diver 300m
- Price: £5,600 | Movement: Automatic | Case diameter: 42mm
In every James Bond movie since 1995, the superspy has worn one of Omega’s Seamaster models, with the most iconic being the blue Seamaster Diver 300m worn by Daniel Craig in his debut as the character in Casino Royale. It’s a statement piece that’s recognisable from across a room. It’s both sporty and dressy with, as the name suggests, considerable water resistance.
The alternative: Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300
- Price: £750-950 | Movement: Automatic | Case diameter: 40mm and 42mm options
While Christopher Ward might be pushing the boundaries of what constitutes “affordable” these days, it should be appreciated that this price point still comes in at roughly five times cheaper than Omega. I’m going to go out to bat for CW, though, because of the brand’s fascinating story. It’s a British company, born out of three friends’ mutual interest in watches and a “f***k it, why not?” conversation on the River Thames. In just 20 years of existence, CW has quickly shed its microbrand tag and established itself as a major player in the watch industry. The company’s C60 Trident Pro 300 range boasts bold and highly legible designs and comprises a variety of colour combinations, straps and bracelets.
