Nijū: 5 must-try dishes at London’s top Japanese restaurant
Japan's finest food, in the heart of London.
You may not have heard the term ‘katei ryori’ cooking before, but you’ll understand why Mayfair’s Nijū restaurant has gone all-in on it — the Japanese term for homecooking, it’s just like the restaurant itself: easy and welcoming and chic all at once.
The refreshed Nijū menu, put together by Michelin-starred Endo Kazutoshi of Endo at The Rotunda fame, leans into this vibe — dishes are presented with sophistication and a masterful match of flavours, but is as happy to offer a Half Cobb Farm chicken for pull-apart sharing as it is a jaw-dropping Kobe sirloin or Wagyu fillet.
And those meats really are jaw-dropping — executive chef Chris Golding is happy to show you cuts of the day from his kitchen, with marbling that’d make the British Museum ready to start another treasured artefact crisis.
Beef connoisseurs take note then, but sushi lovers are equally well served — counter-side seating lets you watch David Bury’s team lay out tuna nigiri on every step of the catch’s waist-worrying journey, from lean Akami red to menu-highlight fatty Otoro.
It’s enough to want to surgically swap your fingers for chopsticks, as our recent lunch-time taste test proved. Here’s 7 key things you need to know about Nijū’s latest menu, and the 5 can’t miss dishes you need to try.
Where is it?
20 Berkeley Street, London, W1J 8EE. In the heart of Mayfair, a short walk from Green Park Station — easily missed though, as it’s in a red brick townhouse.
What’s special?
A calm and classy dining space, offering delicious sushi and Japanese beef, with a great cocktail and sake menu.
What’s new?
The latest menu revamp focuses on ‘katei ryori’ cooking, which broadly means ‘home-cooked food’. But don’t expect dishes you’ll whip up in your own kitchen — these are sophisticated spins on Japanese classics.
Who should you bring?
Colleagues, clients and dates, rather than a big gang of mates. Nijū isn’t stuffy, but it’s not one for giant toasts ahead of a night out.
What should you wear?
Again, not stuffy, so shirts and shoes are not a requirement. But you’ll feel out of place if you’re not putting any effort in when entering its chic dining space.
How much to pay?
You won’t get much change from £100 on the À La Carte menu, if you’re going to see the best Nijū has to offer. A three course lunch menu costs £35, while the Sunday Katei Ryōri menu is £65 a head.
What should you drink?
Grab one of the Penicillin Ginger and Honey Jimoto cocktails (£22), the smoothest whisky cocktail in town – Hibiki Harmony, Port Charlotte peated whisky, dry honey, miso & honey triple sec, ginger vinegar, fermented honey. A glass of Keigetsu 45 sake is a treat too — lychee and rose for a light palate cleanse between bites. Don’t forget there’s the Nipperkin cocktail bar downstairs, too.
Five must-have Nijū dishes
1. Otoro: Absolutely DO NOT MISS THIS. A nigiri bite made of fatty tuna belly, flame-seared and topped with caviar, it is a melt-in-the-mouth wonder that might ruin all other sushi bites for you for the rest of time.
2. Grilled Orkney scallop: Scallops big enough to share served in a half shell, the Chita whisky sauce is rich and moreish. Its delicate saffron notes come from a Japanese supplier so exclusive it’s shipped to executive chef Chris Golding in a neat paper envelope with a handwritten thank you note.
3. Roasted turbot: Meaty and homely with its miso butter and turikake finish, it’s designed for sharing but you might want to slide the plate closer to your end of the table.
4. Spicy spinach: Greens with a gently warming kick, keeping their crunch and a great accompanying side for most elements of the core menu.
5. Matcha and white chocolate fondant: A buoyant and sweet matcha cake, avoiding matcha’s sometimes bitter finish with an enjoyably-oozy centre.
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