Nipperkin, Mayfair: 4 out of this world cocktails you have to try

Sophisticated seasonal sips in a subterranean speakeasy — that’s Nipperkin in a nutshell, an intimate cocktail hideaway in Mayfair, nestled below the fantastic Niju Japanese restaurant.

Nipperkin has its roots in Japanese nightlife too, modelled after the casual, homely listening rooms of 1950s Tokyo — its cosy space is soundtracked by the staff’s own cherry-picked acid jazz records.

It’s a suitably-eclectic sonic pairing for the creative cocktails on offer. Conjured by Angelos Bafas and his team at a central island bar, the focus here is on seasonal produce — a rotation of seasonal menus, featuring ingredients themed around “Lean” winter, “Plethora” spring / summer and “Prep” autumn produce, leads to some wildly creative drinks. Expect liberal spices and umami vegetable bases along with the sweet classics — Nipperkin has 30 “off menu” specials to suit every taste.

With all produce either grown in-house or locally sourced, Nipperkin’s also able to showcase its own ‘greatest hits’ heritage — key distillations are added to a flavour library that will allow staff to remix and return to favourite concoctions for years to come.

We sampled a few pours from Nipperkin’s Winter menu and fell in love with the cosy space. Here’s some top choices for when Dry January breaks — and a non-alcoholic option for those that just can’t wait, too.

Where is it?
20 Berkeley Street, London, W1J 8EE. Walking distance from Green Park station and sitting in the same red townhouse that restaurant Nijū is housed in.

What’s special?
Seasonal-produce focus, styled to evoke a Japanese listening room of the 1950s — complete with amazing acid-jazz vinyl collection on the decks.

What’s new?
Menu rotation has reached its Winter ‘Lean’ season — expect pears, beetroot, leeks and truffles among the flavour mix.

Who should you bring?
Old friends, partners new and old who don’t mind snuggling up — it’s an intimate space best serving small groups, so book a table ahead of time to avoid disappointment.

What should you wear?
Make an effort, you’re in Mayfair! These are sophisticated sups, so show some respect.

How much to pay?
Cocktails average £20, snacks starting at £8.

4 must-try Nipperkin cocktails

1. Meech’s Quince & Beeswax

• The Lakes whiskymaker’s reserve No7, Suntory Hibiki harmony, organic beeswax, quince liqueur, Exmoor raw wildflower honey
• Nipperkin’s tasting notes: Aromatic, viscous, spirit forward

A luxurious Old Fashioned-alike served with a fist-sized ice cube, the Meech’s Quince & Beeswax is among the smoothest whiskey mixes we’ve tried in recent times. Its honey touch lends it an almost mead-like quality, with the No7 grounding the palate. We had it paired with a delicious wagyu tartare (£18) — a rich treat from the equally-luxurious Niju restaurant upstairs.

2. Sundried Tomatoes & Chilies

• Lost Explorer tequila & mezcal, sundried tomatoes, Nipperkin’s tomato liqueur, Scottish chilies, preserved apricots
• Nipperkin’s tasting notes: Savory, spicy, peppery

If “tomato cocktail” conjures grim memories of a hangover-bating Bloody Mary, this Margherita-like concoction will blow your mind. Using extracted tomato water combined with a 70% white spirit, layers of spice and sweetness come together for a satisfyingly gulpable cocktail, finished with a sesame salt rim.

3. Foraged Mushrooms & Ginger

• Michter’s rye whiskey, Nipperkin’s mushroom distillate, Mancino Kopi vermouth, fermented ginger, Exmoor wild honey
• Nipperkin’s tasting notes: Umami, spiced, long

Completely upending expectations around a mushroom-based cocktail — i.e., convincing me that maybe all cocktails should be mushroom-based — this was the menu highlight of our visit. “Aged” (for 30 minutes!) with oak chips from mushroom bark, it’s an event in itself watching the cocktail being made. Bar staff literally fan the giant ice blocks in this tall drink ahead of adding them to the glass to ensure they’re tempered to the same temperature as the chilled liquid.

• Non-alcoholic citrus spirit, English grated wasabi, pickled ginger, sour agent.
• Nipperkin’s tasting notes: Velvety, earthy, spiced

A Dry January pick that will make you wish every day was January 1st, this “wasabi sour” drinks like a punchy liquid lemon meringue. The fact that its real wasabi (not a horse radish substitute) is farmed in a secret Dorset location that even the bar staff isn’t privy to only adds to its allure. It could almost double as dessert.

• Nijū: 5 must-try dishes at London’s top Japanese restaurant