Day 3 in Milan for ShortList style director Adrian Clark and fashion stylist Barnaby Ash as they check out the latest Autumn/Winter collections.
To read day 2 click here.
By the last day of Milan, the fashion pack is usually flagging. Not so this season, with Italy’s fashion capital keeping up the momentum and heralding a stellar autumn season ahead.
Dsquared2 (second to left), designed by Canadian identical twins Dean and Dan Caten, kicked off with a show that was pretty tame by their standards, deciding to focus on great autumnal pieces which they layered coat over coat and taking the first American settlers as their inspiration. Uncharacteristically the dynamic duo used a monochromatic colour palette of coal blacks, ash greys and white, only punctuated by deep (if distressed) shades of indigo for the brand’s bread and butter, denim classics, such as trucker or railroad worker jackets and drop waist jeans.
Tailoring was creased and shrunken in silhouette, often stained on the shoulders with carriage house dust, while white cotton aprons were used as layers worn over jeans and trapped under jackets and coats, wrapped in belts to create an exaggerated X-line silhouette.
British born designer, Neil Barrett who has become a permanent fixture on the Milanese circuit, presented a very tight and well-considered collection, opting to use neoprene ‘scuba’ anatomically seamed leggings as a consistent foundation from which to showcase his talent for creating contemporary tailoring and fine knitwear. The second skin leggings, which gave a sportier feel to the collection were shown in both black and arctic white, topped by Arran, Guernsey and irregular sailor striped sweaters or snow patrol tuxedos and pea coats. Longhair goatskin was used for trims as texture on coats.
Giorgio Armani (far left) always likes to have the last word, and his collection shown yesterday was no exception, playing with a family of tonal grey hues. Digging deep into the label’s DNA for great tailoring, suits were sympathetically cut and unashamedly classic, the best of which could be exemplified in the opening look, a weighty overcoat (oversized coats are a major trend for autumn) teamed with a flannel track suit, a shirt in jersey and a tie.
Tom Ford celebrates the pending opening of a new store in St Moritz by upping the Ante using lots of fur for fall. The otter anorak, with fine nappa leather trim and chunky zips was the defining moment.
The last offering of the day came from Ermenegildo Zegna’s younger line, Z. Zegna (second to right), which explored the season’s key colour, shades of teal and rich turquoise for knits, and desert sand for separates including a beautiful and structured shearling coat.
Shockwaves Style Director Michael Douglas on how to get the look from Pringle Of Scotland (far right):
“This is an update on one of the first modern post-war styles. To achieve it, apply Shockwaves Lightweight Gel (RRP £2.99) to damp hair and blow dry from the crown forward, using a comb to keep the hair flat while drying. Once all dry, apply Shockwaves Styling Wax (RRP £2.99) with your palms, smooth over the hair and sweep the fringe across one way. It’s really easy, classic and very cool.”
