Mixed-up macho: Sydney
“Men’s style in Sydney is very eclectic,” explains Giuseppe Santamaria, who snaps guys with a distinct look in their natural habitat for meninthistown.com, be that his Australian hometown or the streets of Milan, New York or London. Not typically known for high-end fashion, Sydney is a city now daring to take risks: “Men in the mainstream are finally starting to experiment with fashion.” Style-wise it’s a total free for all; high-waisted cords, denim dungarees and bright patterned knits wouldn’t look out of place on sartorially-inclined Aussies. “It’s a time of trying new things, leading to some flamboyant looks,” adds Santamaria.
Shop: Simple local brand Saba,saba.com.au
Nineties Skate Revival: New York
“Men are becoming more important,” says Adam Katz Sinding. Adamant his online photo collection (le21eme.com) “isn’t a street style blog”, the photographer’s snaps of stylish men provide an insightful glimpse into NY dressing. “Things are going back to a skateboard/graphic aspect,” he says. “I see lots of insignia on the backs of garments.” If there was a time when graphic T-shirts and jackets weren’t deemed on-trend, the tide is turning, giving rise to a Nineties aesthetic Sinding calls “what I used to wear in middle school”.
Shop: Street-luxe mecca Idol, idolbrooklyn.com
West Coast Americana: Los Angeles
Did you think LA was more of a sprawling Hollywood mess than a pioneer of style? Robert Spangle is inclined to agree. “LA is weird,” says the Savile Row tailor-turned-photographer (thousandyardstyle.com). “It’s not a fashion city, but it’s influential because it’s where new music and artists come from.” Still, local surf, skateboarding and street subcultures infuse fashion trends to make for original and, as Spangle puts it, “interesting vibes”. Right now you’ll see a blend of old- school Americana with traditional workwear hitting the West Coast. This means jeans, leather or denim vests, leather wallets, shirts, braces and engineer or motorcycle boots. Want to give it a whirl? Don’t forget your wrists (“You see a ton of guys with South American or Native American bangles and three or four necklaces”) or your hair: “Almost anywhere you look, guys have clean haircuts. Not in LA. Older guys have long hair, ponytails – the whole ‘man bun’ thing.”
Shop: Rugged Venice man cave Charlie’s, charliesla.com
Dark Normcore: Paris
If you thought normcore – the 2014 anti-trend of basically dressing like Larry David – had passed, think again. The Parisians are adding a twist to functional fashion. “A lot of guys are mixing normcore elements with a darker palette,” explains Spangle. “There’s a specific crowd in Paris: people such as Rick Owens and Kokon To Zai. You’ve always had streetwear, but now it’s more accessible – the items are relatable.”
Shop: Colette – home of functional Gallic cool, colette.fr
Stealth swag: Milan
“Coming out of the recession, clothes were conservative,” says Spangle. “Luxury was something people shied away from.” Now, though, you can’t move for textured material in Milan, be it fur, wool or thick denim. Fur? “You don’t expect to see it,” says Spangle. “But it was never an outright coat, it was in the lining.” This placing is important: “It’s this hidden luxury. It’s sort of rough, survivalist.”
Shop: Eclectic Milanese landmark Eral, eral55.com
The New Minimal: Copenhagen
“People in Copenhagen have authentic street style,” says Sinding. “Nobody is trying to look better than anybody else.” It stems from, he says, the Scandinavian Law of Jante: “You just want to live your life and be happy.” So what do Danish guys actually wear? “A crew-neck sweatshirt, black skinny jeans, chunky sneakers or hiking boots and a beanie that’s barely on their head.”
Shop: The flagship of modernist kings Wood Wood, woodwood.dk
Statement Streetwear: Seoul
Instead of dressing head to toe in streetwear, South Koreans pick something to catch your eye: a leather jacket, a bright neoprene jumper (known as ‘Man To Man sweaters’) or vintage shoes. “Men who are interested in fashion choose one piece,” says British-born photographer Alex Finch, who lives in Seoul shooting street style for iamalexfinch.net. “[A fashionable South Korean man] will wear jeans and a Dior jacket. Or Prada brogues. They’ll splurge on their shoes to tie it all together.” Big on international brands (Adidas, New Balance) as much as their own (Low Classic, Beyond Closet), bomber jackets and box-fresh trainers are also key. “I hear a lot of people saying Korean fashion just follows other countries,” adds Finch, “but they’re becoming more and more aware.”
Shop: Accessible Seoul-wear spot Lucky Chouette, luckychouette.com
Workwear 2.0: London
With London Collections: Men, the city has become an epicentre for breaking sartorial rules by mixing formal and casualwear. “There’s a lot of workwear,” says Jonathan Pryce, of garconjon.com and 100 Days, 100 Beards. “Guys mix new and vintage for a practical look.” It’s about finding a balance. “Army green, navy and grey have been really strong,” adds Pryce, “alongside sportswear such as a baseball cap, trainers or overalls.”
Shop: Newburgh Street’s vintage Levi’s store, levi.com
Twisted Tailoring: Tokyo
Where you once couldn’t move for grunge culture in Japan, there’s been a notable shift; sharp, simple tailoring is the look for every dapper gent. Huge fans of British brands, the influence of Savile Row is well-trodden – so much so the Japanese for suit is ‘sabiro’. But this is classic clothing with a twist: patterned trousers, bow ties or layers of smart denim. “Tokyo is my favourite city to photograph, because every corner I turn there is an impeccably dressed man,” Santamaria says of shooting street style there. “They take their dressing very seriously and will execute a look down to the very last detail.”
Shop: Preppy Harajuku heroes Beams, shop.beams.co.jp (or mrporter.com for British stockists)
Words: Louise Donovan Photographs: Alex Finch, Giuseppe (Men in this town), Jonathan D Pryce, Adam Katz Sinding, Robert Spangle (ThousandYardStyle)
