ShortList's stylist Barnaby Ash reports back on the first day of the collections in Milan.
Over the first weekend of shows, Dolce & Gabbana was the first collection to deliver a strong message, with an offering of predominantly finely crafted black tailoring, which played with traditional silhouettes interspersed with flourishes of floral needlepoint embroidery. The presentation was a handsome incarnation of Italian tradition and was shown on a street-casting of Sicilian men, set to the classical soundtrack from The Road (La Strada) by Federico Fellini.
Versace, on the other hand, has never been one to bow down to tradition and this collection only further cemented that position. This season saw massive street wear references blended with some of the most obscenely luxurious fabrics, such as the floor length black fox fur pimp coat worthy of Huggy Bear.
Meanwhile, Miuccia Prada's realisation of Autumn Winter was a stunningly chic blend of fine checks, off-centre neutrals and bright saturated pops of colour. Inspired by late Fifties and early Sixties style, the show harboured a soft-shouldered slim-legged silhouette paired with chunky footwear, all presented among a beautifully crafted set made of industrial foam with cityscape views projected on the walls. Miuccia, we salute you.
Grooming Tip:
Miuccia Prada's subversive take on cookie cutter American suburbia had an innocent, clean-living, boyish feel, with the models sporting fresh-faced and clear skin. Hair was messily textured in an untamed teenage style, which was flattened at the top but springing up at the ends, with more than a passing resemblance to Harry Styles.
To achieve the look use L'Oreal Paris Studio Line Out of Bed Fibre Cream/Gel £3.56 (RRP) for 150ml; stockists 0800-0304 032, which lets you mould messed-up effects that will last up to 24 hours without foregoing lustre and a soft shine. For the matte textured, healthy living-effect skin use L'Oreal Paris Men Expert Pure & Matte Anti-Shine Moisturising Gel £9.18 for 50ml; stockists 0800-0304 032, an ultra-light, non-greasy gel that tackles shine thanks to its anti-sebum solution.
Adrian Clark
